Candler, NC Heating & Cooling

Returned 7/8/25 removed water from auxiliary drain pan - allowed unit to cycle on - ran water through system primary drain pan through drain - condensate pump cycles normally - blocked primary drain port and filled primary drain pan with water and watched - found drain pan drips in back left corner of primary drain - recommend replacement of drain pan - will follow up with availability of drain pan.

Water in emergency drain pan. Put my level on the air handler and it was pitched toward the back of the unit away from the drain. Main adjustment to the pads under the unit so it has pitched toward the front. Pulled the filter door off the unit and shine my light as system. Didn’t see any evidence of water dripping over the drain pan took the drain pipe out of the condensate pump and put the PVC pipe into a clear water bottle to see it drain. Filled up the water bottle pretty fast still didn’t see any evidence of water dripping past the drain pan. I think the drain pipe that went into the condensate pump went in just a little bit too far causing the PVC pipe to have a double trap. Went ahead and cut the drain pipe down so it just barely enters the compensate. Let the system run. Seems like it’s draining fine now. Double checked through the filter door one more time to verify that I couldn’t see any water dripping off the coil drain pan.

Call back - water leaking around drain pan for upstairs system - removed water from auxiliary drain pan - flushed unit drain line and treated unit condensate pump - cycled unit condensate pump to check operation of pump - everything flows and runs normally again. Cycled air conditioner to check operation of unit. Everything runs normally again!

Downstairs system breaker was tripped for heat pump. I reset the breaker and ran the system. It didn’t trip again. The main problem was the upstairs thermostat being blank. Found the emergency drain pan full of water.. Removed water and tested the system. Pump seems to be working. System has a 22° temperature difference. It’s possible that the pump float got hung up somehow or that the power surge that happened the other night may have caused an issue. I tried to look inside the return base box to see if there was water in there. I didn’t see any water in it. If it happens again, we may have to replace the pump or look further on where the water is coming from.

Today I’m troubleshooting an AC system that’s not cooling. The compressor is running, but suction pressure is extremely low. I’m confirming a restriction at the TXV inlet. Recovering refrigerant, replacing the valve, pulling a deep vacuum to below 500 microns, and recharging with R-410A to manufacturer specs. Verifying subcooling and superheat to ensure proper metering.

Today I’m working on a basement dehumidifier installation. The unit is being ducted to a central return to handle high moisture levels consistently over 65% RH. Connecting it to an external condensate pump and configuring the digital humidistat for automatic operation.

I’m on site for a filter change today. The homeowner’s 1-inch filter was completely clogged, reducing airflow and causing the coil to sweat. I’m replacing it with a pleated MERV 11 filter and reviewing proper change frequency with the customer to avoid unnecessary stress on the blower motor.

I’m performing a mini split repair today on a multi-zone system where one indoor unit is not responding. After testing voltage at the terminal block, I traced the fault to a defective communication wire between the outdoor unit and the zone board. I’ve replaced the wire and reseated all connections. Now verifying refrigerant balance across all zones and checking subcooling to ensure the system is running efficiently.

We will replace permanent split capacitor blower motor on air handler unit with a like for like replacement including the capacitor. When blower is removed from system we will also remove blower wheel and clean the blower wheel of all debris. When blower motor is replaced we will clean both indoor and outdoor coils and check system operation, refrigerant balance, and all other electrical components to ensure system is operating within manufacturer's specifications.

Replace leaking coil and txv. Will also be reworking the line set so you can get door off. Replace the evaporator coil rework copper to coil so the doors can come off to be serviced. Added 2 1/2 pounds before 10 a super heat 12 sub delta T 22.

System indoor blower motor bearings are starting to come apart which is causing a lot of vibration in the unit. Dirty indoor coils and blower wheel restricting air flow and refrigerant pressures reflect dirt coil. Recommendation is replacement of blower motor and cleaning of blower wheel as well as perform a tune up service to clean indoor and outdoor coils.

Ultimate Cooling Tune-Up: cleaned coils, brushed and cleaned traps, added pan treatment tablets to pan. tested and checked all controls, wiring connections. tested temperatures, checked filters. checked refrigerant temperature and pressures, tested static duct pressure. tested blower operation, tested cooling operation to ensure working within manufacturer specifications. Second floor unit was low on refrigerant. Added 6 pounds of refrigerant. Performed a leak search. Found leak middle of evaporator coil on right side.

In the morning when I diagnose the fan issue, I only had flipped breakers at the air handler. So I was thinking that it might be the breaker. When I arrived, I turned the air conditioner on turn the fan to the on position and everything started working switch the fan back to auto and after the five minute time delay, the air conditioner came on Any issues not sure why it wasn’t coming on

Found play in blower wheel. There shouldn’t be any play in the blower wheel with blower motor. Blower motor should be replaced. Also blower wheel is packed with dirt. Coil is dirty as well and should be cleaned. It looks like where the filter goes in. It doesn’t seal up in the corners so when we replaced the blower motor, we can try to seal up those corners as best we can and clean the coil in place.

Found capacitor on outdoor unit had failed not allowing the condenser fan to start. As far as the burning smell it is the dust on the heat strips burning off. Replaced capacitor and tested system operation. System is now working properly. Temperature difference was 18 between return and supply Condenser fan is pulling .7 amps, compressor is pulling 4 amps, blower is pulling 2 amps, heat strips are pulling 60 amps. Replaced customer thermostat and tested system operation.

Performed heating tune up on gas furnace and heat pump system checking all electrical components, refrigerant balance, combustion, gas pressure, O2, CO, CO2, flue gas temperature, safeties, zones, start up, light off, operation, defrost, shutdown. Everything looks and runs great!

Ultimate Heating Tune-Up Dual Fuel: serviced and inspected gas heating system checking air flow, temperature rise, electrical, gas pressure, safeties, controls and limits, heat exchanger and venting. cleaned and checked system components to manufacturer specifications and performed combustion inspection. serviced and inspected heat pump system, electrical, safeties, controls, reversing valve and defrost cycle to manufacturer specifications. Replaced filter and humidifier pad. Ultimate Heating Tune-Up Heat Pump: serviced and inspected heat pump system, including electrical, safeties, controls, reversing valve and defrost cycle to manufacturer specifications. Replaced filters for 2nd floor Filter for ceiling is 20x20x1. I told you wrong size last visit

Outdoor fan is running with out the compressor. Checked Circuit board on heat pump to see if there was any LEDs that were flashing any codes. I couldn’t find any. I reset the power for three minutes turned it back on put my gauges on the unit left my Aunt probe on the incoming power temperature sensors on the indoor unit and started the system. I could hear the EXV opening heard the compressor start. With both heads calling for cooling and temperature set on the thermostat as low as possible forced outdoor unit into high. Amp draw is seven for the compressor and the fan. Delta T is 28 and refrigerant pressure is 120. I suspect that there might’ve been a power surge of some kind that caused the board not to start the compressor. But if this happens again, we’ll call tech-support and take a little deeper.

Performed AC cooling tune ups on mini split systems checking all electrical, refrigerant balance, unit start u, operation, shutdown, cleaning of indoor and outdoor coils and treatment of drains. Everything looks and runs great!

Replaced broken heat strip and tested. Ultimate Cooling Tune-Up: cleaned coils, brushed and cleaned traps, added pan treatment tablets to pan. tested and checked all controls, wiring connections. tested temperatures, checked filters. checked refrigerant temperature and pressures, tested static duct pressure. tested blower operation, tested cooling operation to ensure working within manufacturer specifications. 1st floor system has media filter on furnace. You should not have filters in the walls. This double filtering and causes higher static pressure and bad airflow. Also this type of filter is a once a year filter. It’s in good shape. 2nd floor filters 14x14x1 and 18x18x1. You had 18x18 in mechanical closet. We will need to replace the 14x14x1. That filter didn’t look to bad.

Found short on heat strip DC relay. High voltage wire melted into the low-voltage wire. Heat strip should be under warranty as the systems only three years old. T030-0010 $152 to replace heatstrips. They should be in by Friday next week

Found blower motor and blower wheel on furnace have failed. blower wheel has crashed into blower housing and has come apart. Parts have been found locally and can be replaced. Quoted 1366 + tax

Damper is flipped so it is spring closed and power open. If you look at the damper from the outdoor vent you can see it open when the vent hood comes on.

Delta T of 18 to 22 across all power heads. Treated outdoor coils with green cleaner. Rinsed kitchen power head with auto sprayer. Systems functioning normally.

Replacement of 1/2" back flow preventer