Trusted HVAC Services in Asheville, NC

Flushed boiler of air and added antifreeze to system - released stuck pins on downstairs and second floor radiators. Cycled system to check operation.

Installation shall include: Removal and replacement of existing supply ductwork in unfinished basement. The largest size of the new duct work will be 10” in height. • We will add 2 supply ducts to the basement zone for better air flow to the basement zone • We will replace existing zone dampers with properly sized Honeywell zone dampers. • One (1) year labor warranty provided by Comfort Central, Inc. • Ten (10) Year Guarantee on Comfort Central Inc Workmanship.

Performed heating tune up service on heat pump system checking all electrical components, refrigerant balance, unit start up, operation, defrost, shutdown. Everything looks and runs great!

Found pump relay to be bad, not allowing the circulator pump to engage. Jumped 110 V to the pump to circulate until we can get the replacement part. This might overheat things in the house, but you’ll have heat if it gets too hot you could always come down and turn the power off to the boiler. In spring time or summer we will be replacing the pressure reducing valve. I took a picture so we know what to order. Just call us up when you’re ready to do that and we can get your price.

Added mixing valve to the potable hot water side of the boiler to give more a vape balanced water temperature

Kitchen radiator vent currently a 40 looking to upgrade to a larger vent. Upstairs 35" 6 cell bathroom radiator has a leak - recommend replacement of radiator Upstairs back bedroom radiator also leaking 2' 16 cells also looking for replacement.

It’s like a clear poly froze wherever it goes outside. This caused pressure in the line which caused the clear poly to come off of the condensate pump. At this point, the water probably sprayed out of the condensate pump got all over the decking and filled up the emergency drain pan. Once it filled up the emergency drain pan float switch shut off the furnace. The emergency drain pan is 100% block of ice. I reconnected the hose made sure the hose clamp was super tight started the system to make sure it would come on, and I turned off the breaker the condensate pump and all the ice in the emergency drain pan will have to melt before we can run the system. Gonna have to vacuum out the water, reconnect the float switch inside the furnace and test to make sure there’s no other issues

No lights at head. S1 amd S2 are steady with 35vdc. Should be fluctuating. Have 220 on s1 and s2. Called tech support . Tech Support verified that the power board and the communication board are bad and must be replaced

Found system operating normally at this time no recommended changes.

Condensate pump cracked and leaking - replaced condensate pump and cycled to check operation. Everything runs normally again.

Found inducer motor had failed - inducer motor will have to be ordered will call as inducer arrives.

Replaced 12x12 air filter grill

I believe the dehumidifier was introducing cold air during the air sampling. When it samples the air all the ductwork is cold. Usually samples there for about a minute and a half to 2 1/2 minutes and then turns off if the humidity is lower than the set point. I recommend when it’s this cold outside And the humidity is low to turn the dehumidifier off.

System was off on low water cut off, which means that there was air in the system. Possibly a leak under the slab, which would have drained it. We realize this because the water was shut off, which means that the automatic fill pressure reducing valve couldn’t fill. Quite a bit of water was missing out of the boiler. If there’s no leak, the boiler should’ve held the water it had. You may have to find someone that can find leaks in a slab. And it seems like the two different zones that the pumps are on both had water missing. So it may be more Went ahead and turned the water on bled the air out tested everything to make sure that the piping was getting hot and the return water was getting hot for both zones

Found when boiler ramped up that the pressure would get close to 30 and the pressure relief valve would open a little bit and allow the pressure to drop. Didn’t seem like the pressure tank was taking the expansion of the hot water. Pulled the expansion tank off, made sure that there was flow of water. Recommend replacing expansion tank.

Found unit cycling off on pressure switch. Found drain trap inside furnace to be 100% plugged with sediment. Push the metal rod in there to break it up. Still couldn’t get it to clear ran nitrogen through. It blew all the sediment out started and tested system. Found Door switch to be bad cycling the zone control off and on a few times went ahead and just bypass that so it doesn’t happen again.

Was told that there was water around the boiler. No water today everything seemed dry. Boiler pressure was 15 psi which wouldn’t cause the pressure relief valve to open the pump. Looks like it has been working. Need to put a couple of containers under the two pressure relief valves to verify that if the leak happens again that it’s not those two. If there is water on the ground, it’s a possibility we may have to change the condensation pump.

Found wire coming off of contactor that goes to the capacitor to have come off. It seemed a little loose on the connection so I squeezed the terminal female to make it tighter and put it back on compressor started no issues. Temperature difference was 40° no other issues found we double checked the other wires in there. Everything else seems solid.

Didn’t look like there was any leaks in the boiler room. It’s possible that the pressure reducing valve on the potable water side has popped off several times. Need a plumber to come check the pressure to verify that the pressure reducing valve on the potable water into the house is not bad.

Performed heating tune up service on steam boiler system cleaning all boiler components including burners and sensors, checking flue for obstruction, blowing down boiler until water came back clear, performance of full combustion analysis, checking boiler start up, light off, operation, shutdown. Everything looks and runs great!

Performed heating tune up service on heat pump system checking all electrical components, refrigerant balance, unit start up, operation, defrost, shutdown, replacement of customer provided filter. Everything looks and runs great!

Found thermostat had slipped its programming and had set itself to 62° reporgrammed thermostat and cycled unit to check operation. Everything came on normally - found closed vent in family room - opened louvers on vent. Everything should operate normally again.

Dehumidifier not working - found no error codes on dehumidifier - adjusted dehumidifier settings to cycle unit and checked operation of dehumidifier. System did come on normally. Adjusted dehumidification target down from 50% to 40% and allowed system to cycle to satisfaction.

Found 12x12 filter grill has warped and is causing a slight noise recommend replacement of filter grill will follow up with pricing and availability.

System locked out on fault, indicating no ignition after several tries does a hard lockout. Incoming gas pressure 13 WC. Manifold pressure is 2WC. Try to adjust gas valve with no success. Gas valve also has a chatter when the unit fires up and when the inducer is running that goes away after 20 seconds. Gas valve is bad must be replaced